Techno Music

A picture of me redpointing Aborigine more than a year ago.

Well, it finally happened…I sent Technorigine!! I guess the first time I set foot and hand on it was over a year ago and it was more like I clipped the first bolt and fell. Hardly an attempt. However I have been feverishly working the 30 meter beast for the last month or so and after 11 goes it finally went. I made it to Little si with my usual climbing compadres Jimmy and Nic and we decided to do Techno as a warm up. Nic, who has really been on fire lately hung the draws for me but just couldn’t find the mojo to clip the chains. It was okay though, he has sent the rig and since repeated it with style and without using the toilet bowl rest. Jimmy fired up Abo but fell on the first move of the extension. Last time I was here with him he really made good progress and got through both cruxes before falling. He’ll definitely send it soon. I was up last and just felt completely dialed. I took a good shaje in the toilet bowl and then fired up the last bit of Abo into the extension. Every move felt a little bit easier and it really made a difference at the end. I made the committing high step and clipped the chains with a victory shout that rocked World Wall. This route had really been a goal for me and I was so ecstatic to have sent it at the very beginning of our session. World Wall was pretty packed already and our friends Rob and Leslie were already there and congratulated me as we made our way to the Rainy Day corner. They were working a super cool route called End of the World which I haven’t done in a long time but remember that it was a really exposed and fun route.

Leslie sends End of the World(5.12a)

Leslie ended up sending it and it was a cool feat to see. As more people showed up we mainly worked on Viagro and Nic repeated Deluge, and worked on Californicator and almost sent Viagrophobia. He has really been pushing himself lately to climb not only hard but with as much effort as he can muster. Jimmy had a slightly off day but had a good warm down burn on Rainy Day and we are all looking forward to our upcoming weekend romp in Squamish. Mountain Fest here we come!!!!

Jimmy on a clean up burn of Aborigine(5.11b)