Little si Catch Up!
About a week ago me and my friends Jimmy and Whitey made it out to our favorite, and closest sport crag Little si. Whitey had just recently returned from his climbing trip to Kalymnos, Greece, and was super psyched to get out on some real rock again. While in Greece he climbed harder than he has ever climbed, onsighting and flashing several .12b's and sending his first .12c. This would be his first time out since his return and we were all anxious to get him back on routes that had shut him down before he left. Whitey made quick work of redpointing Rainy Day Women, getting the send his first try and then made an impressive flash of False Idol(5.11d). I was definitely impressed with the lead head and the endurance he had gained. Jimmy on the other hand almost ended up sending Technorigine(5.12c) on his third go! He made a major leap in progress since the last time and I'm sure the next time he is here he'll send the rig. I did a lot of climbing as well, I wamred up on Rainy Day, did three burns on Techno and then warmed down on Rainy Day, needless to say the next day my shoulders were burning. All in all it was a great day of sends and almost sends and just pure climbing enjoyment the whole way round!
7/4/08
Happy fourth everyone! Yesterday I made it to Little si once again with my friend Nic. Despite the warnings of golf ball sized hail, thunder storms, and basically all the signs of the apocalypse Little si turned out to be in perfect climbing condition. The rock was cool, the temps were the same and we were both shocked to find ourselves at the base of our new/long term? project Technorigine(5.12c). Nic stepped up to the plate, and we decided to just go for it on the warm up. He climbed coolly through Abo, and then busted through the next two cruxes linking farther than he had ever linked it. I tried to tell him to just stay cool for the end but I didn't want to spook him so I just let him do his thing. He made it all the way to the bulge and with one final grunt pulled up into the juggy undercling and clipped the chains!! Such a well earned and sick send, congratulations Nic, this is his second .12c and there will be more to come for sure.
I had a lazy climbing day, I sort of felt like I was still back home in my robe and slippers watching 'the view'(if you know what I mean). After Nic sent I tried to send as well but fell at the first crux, fell at the second, and fell at every other clip, but did manage to clip the chains. On my second go I linked through the first crux but pumped out hardcore and decided to call it a day. On another important note Nic also came agonizingly close to sending Psychosomatic(5.12d) right after he had 'warmed up' on Techno. Another sickly display of climbing confidence by Nic. He made it through the crux only to fall slapping at the victory jug...aaaarrrggghhhh! It was way impressive no matter how you cut it and we ended the day on a good note; if you don't include the fact that we then drove to Exit 38 to climb at Nevermind only to get shutdown on Culture Shock and laugh out loud at the geometrically shaped holds we once coddled affectionately while clinging to them in begginner desperation. I'm psyched for the upcoming three days of rest and as usual the climbing trip we have planned on Monday. I'm gonna go blow shit up now in order to celebrate our independence or something like that.
7/4/08
Happy fourth everyone! Yesterday I made it to Little si once again with my friend Nic. Despite the warnings of golf ball sized hail, thunder storms, and basically all the signs of the apocalypse Little si turned out to be in perfect climbing condition. The rock was cool, the temps were the same and we were both shocked to find ourselves at the base of our new/long term? project Technorigine(5.12c). Nic stepped up to the plate, and we decided to just go for it on the warm up. He climbed coolly through Abo, and then busted through the next two cruxes linking farther than he had ever linked it. I tried to tell him to just stay cool for the end but I didn't want to spook him so I just let him do his thing. He made it all the way to the bulge and with one final grunt pulled up into the juggy undercling and clipped the chains!! Such a well earned and sick send, congratulations Nic, this is his second .12c and there will be more to come for sure.
I had a lazy climbing day, I sort of felt like I was still back home in my robe and slippers watching 'the view'(if you know what I mean). After Nic sent I tried to send as well but fell at the first crux, fell at the second, and fell at every other clip, but did manage to clip the chains. On my second go I linked through the first crux but pumped out hardcore and decided to call it a day. On another important note Nic also came agonizingly close to sending Psychosomatic(5.12d) right after he had 'warmed up' on Techno. Another sickly display of climbing confidence by Nic. He made it through the crux only to fall slapping at the victory jug...aaaarrrggghhhh! It was way impressive no matter how you cut it and we ended the day on a good note; if you don't include the fact that we then drove to Exit 38 to climb at Nevermind only to get shutdown on Culture Shock and laugh out loud at the geometrically shaped holds we once coddled affectionately while clinging to them in begginner desperation. I'm psyched for the upcoming three days of rest and as usual the climbing trip we have planned on Monday. I'm gonna go blow shit up now in order to celebrate our independence or something like that.
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