It's Time



Warmer, warmer, warmer, HOT!
The climbing temps have meant disaster for the snow coupled with a very small amount of precip over the last two and half weeks. These combining forces have put a kibosh on the fluffy, inviting, powdery powder that has been such a lovely coating for the mountains lately. The snow is still there, but it lacks a certain je ne sais quoi? It has become hardpacked and spreadable like butter; mmmmm...country crock.
In the mean while I have rekindled that old flame. You know the one, it had something to do with rocks and climbing up and/or over them.
Steph and I got out a couple of times over the last week to bathe in the glorious rays of the sun and do some sweet rock fondling. I managed to warm up and do a couple laps on the classic of the wall 'Shit Ballz' which goes at a whopping 5.10c/d. My forearms were so pumped I felt like I had just come down from my first redpoint of Technorigine. It was real nice to lay fingers on stone once again. My interest in climbing had waned for a little while there as the snow commenced to do its little dance amongst rows of eager onlookers amidst the foliage of my mind. But the embers had never been extinguished. I love climbing, and have been following the latest climbing news like a bloodhound. Since I'm not in a position to do any 'hard' climbing it has been a real struggle to read about all of the climbing adventures everyone has been going on. With all of the good weather we have had lately an all too familiar itch has been rising up in my soul. So, as a tribute to my climbing enthusiasm I have made it a goal to start cleaning the right side of the crag. It will be a bitch, but could definitely turn out to be worth it. For example, there is a sweet arete I have been eyeing since I got here, as well as a ton of moderate looking climbs. For now, here are a few pics from last weeks attempts at climbing:


This is me nearing the chains on Shit Ballz (5.10c/d). I found a nice large loose block and threw it into the abyss.


The last ten meters of this line is truly amazing! The movement alone is classic and the holds are all small crimpers and finger jugs except for one sidepull that you get to do a huge drop knee off of. This is subsequently the first line I did on the wall. To the left of me there is at least three independent lines all ranging between 5.11- and 5.11+.

Comments

Laura said…
I was about to tell you to take off the tag line on your blog: "a climbing blogg" unless you blogged about climbing soon! Sounds like you are getting rather attached to the snow though which is good. Can you say Tahoe for the next move? Oh the perfect combination of climbing and snowboarding. But how lucky are you to have a wall like that right out of town? Very lucky indeed. I just had my first climbing trip of the season as well, and it is off to a good start indeed!
Fo' REAL! Climbing has definitely taken a backseat lately and the title header was starting to become a bit ironic. But, the light has shown in the land of shadows once again and it is back to the good old rock wrestling we all love so much. I saw that you and Dom and went to Vantage, sounded like a great trip. It's funny, I really started off hating Vantage and when I left it was one of the places that I hold dearly to my heart...man I miss climbing.

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