Lemon Drop

It was like that first time I started making links on Chronic.  That constant breathing, that intent focus, unwavering, that fire in my belly, that insane DRIVE!  I love that feeling.  That unquenchable pump.  The sudden burst of adrenaline when you realize ‘this is it!’; you have a choice at that moment: to be the helpless, unsuspecting mouse drenched in fear and apprehension; OR, the predatory snake, calm, articulated, powerful, subverting doubt and relying on a killer instinct given to you by millions of years of evolution, striking and surviving.  This metaphor of the snake and the mouse is prevalent to thinking about how to switch modes in climbing.  Alex Megos, Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and many other elite climbers have talked about having to switch ‘modes’ and develop this intense focus when they enter a hard redpoint crux or go for onsights.  And I propose that when you develop the ability to flip that switch you are learning how to climb with the ‘snake’ mentality, calculated, focused, instinctual. 

It had to be a good attempt or else I wouldn’t have taken it seriously.  I did in the end give up, on myself.  I knew I was pumped but I maybe could have squeezed one or two more movements in.  I’m not sure I enjoy sending things in this kind of hectic, convulsive style.  I like to feel like the powerful snake, moving like a cloud and striking like lightning when the crux approaches.  Unfortunately my fingers recoiled from the small sidepull crimp I was supposed to vice grip and I decided to fall victim to the fangs of the route instead of the other way around.  I was still pleased with the way I climbed up to that point.  Extended Illness is proving to be a worthy adversary.  When I send it, it will definitely be one of the most sustained routes I have ever done, particularly because I am deciding to just skip the knee bar rest and go for broke, looking for hints of recovery buried in the underclings just before the crux.  One shot of psych from this last weekends attempt on Extended was figuring out better beta for the slab crux.  Lead off the sloper with the right hand and reach up to the side pull as a gaston, elevator door with the LH on another good gaston and cross to the flat jug!  It worked like a charm.  I am totally and fully reinvigorated on this project and will start giving it send burns next weekend.  I’m hoping it only takes another two to three sessions to have it in the bag.  But this isn’t even my main project right now.  I’m using Extended (sans kneebar) as a trainer for the ultimate goal: Pornstar.  I had my first lead attempt (after trying parts of it on top rope a few months ago) and I actually did way better than I thought I would.  I was able to do all the moves up until the last crux boulder problem.  I think with a little refinement in the footwork department and the use of a different hold I should be able to start getting into the crux with some regularity.  I’m so energized on this project and am hopeful I can start consistently linking into the last boulder problem by the end of the month.  It’s a major undertaking, but I felt like the majority of the route was not too terribly hard, just powerful and sustained.  The first crux is amazing, huge moves on relatively good holds, totally my style.  The last crux is so heinous though, I can see falling there for a loooooong time.  Fortunately I have a loooooooong time.  And the temps are only going to get better. 

This past weekend on the ledge:

A whole smattering of strong people could be seen hunkered down in the tepid cloak of the afternoon high up on the ledge.  I think I knew almost everybody that was there as well: Zi, Paul, Waterfalls, Julie, Jimmy, Austin, Dr. Intern, Tex, David, Kyle, and Billis.  Needless to say it was a little crowded but in the end I didn’t have to wait for any of the lines I wanted to get on.  While the air temps were less than ideal and the rock was a tad warm and greasy it still proved to be quite the day of climbing.  Tex ended up flashing Sweet Tooth, which Waterfalls subsequently de-equipped and then swung right and de-foliated and equipped Slug Lover; so the quest to up the traffic on some of these old 5.12’s that see zero traffic continues.  The big news (sort of) was the main event of Dr. Intern’s continuing showdown with Chronic.  I just want to point out that Dr. Intern has come a long way since last season.  He has showed a lot of improvement and confidence at the ole World Wall by sending some of the more classic hard 12’s like Californicator, Psychosomatic, and Technorigine.  So it was natural when he decided to gravitate toward Chronic.  While he hasn’t sent 5.13a, Chronic is still kind of the next logical step, and definitely an attractive feather for the aspiring 5.13 climber cap.  I was impressed with the way he calmly climbed through the bottom section, looking dialed, and focused and relaxed.  As soon as he launched into the crux he started to get a little nervous, and in the redpoint crux there was definitely some try hard accompanied by the usual Dr. Intern expletives.  But, he stuck the moves and made it to the rest before the bulge.  Climbing over the bulge was very exciting and there were several moments when I thought he was done but managed to stick each crimp and pull into the last hard move lurching up to the jug.  THIS IS IT!!  He’s got it!  Oh wait, no, he’s falling off the LAST MOVE!!!  Like snapshots from a climbing nightmare; it was over in an instance.  I know how it feels to come so close to a breakthrough, the investment, the mental warring, the doubts, the small success and frustratingly slow progress, only to see victory slip (literally) through your fingers.  It was a pretty epic way to get a new highpoint, but as awesome as it would have been to see him send, at least he can be comforted by the fact that he now knows that he can get there again, climb those sections more efficiently, and ultimately send this route.  Now it’s just a matter of time.  We gave him a ton of shit for punting off the last move for the rest of the day so maybe that will be incentive for him to latch that victory jug next time out.  We will see.  I think there is an important lesson here in Dr. Intern’s failure.  When climbing at your limit there is an incredibly fine line you have to walk; between, hubris and humility, confidence and respect, and focus and fear.  Teeter too much into either side and you will find yourself falling into the abyss. 

 

 

 

"But now I looked back of them and felt the pinch and pressure of the environment that gave them their pitch and peculiar kind of being.  I began to feel with my mind the inner tensions of the people I met.  I don’t mean to say that I think that environment makes consciousness (I suppose God makes that, if there is a God), but I do say that I felt and still feel that the environment supplies the instrumentalities through which the organism expresses itself, and if that environment is warped or tranquil, the mode and manner of behavior will be affected toward deadlocking tensions or orderly fulfillment and satisfaction."  R. Wright  (Native Son)