Solemnity in Twilight

July 07, 2015

Solemnity in Twilight

Tex and his faithful steed Nook.

It is such a bizarre feeling when all of a sudden things change in the blink of an eye. In climbing you can literally go from completely failing to undeniable success in a matter of milliseconds. I guess that’s another complex aspect of climbing that I enjoy (and hate at times) so much. The mental warfare that we all go through when - deciding whether or not we are ready and willing to complete a climb, commit to a move, chance a sketchy fall, or take on a difficult belay - is stressful to say the least but ultimately, if one is willing, it can become an introspective journey.

THA' NOX.

Andrew Itkonen working the beautifully sustained Fight Club (5.13c).

You can be physically able to take on anything that climbing has to throw at you, but the deciding factor can sometimes (or most of the time in my case) be the mental aspect. Nothing exposed this glaring defect more than a route I did this past weekend called Johnny Rocket. The fall you take if you miss the crux V.6/7 dyno is slightly sketchy/dangerous and requires your belayer to be dialed in. It is, in a sense, as if you are both doing the move; while success is up to the climber ensuring safety (sometimes for both parties) is up to the belayer. It’s quite a stressful route for everyone involved, even the spectators. I never would have tried this route if it hadn’t been for good friend and visiting climber Steven Dimitt, who showed up for the fourth of July holiday weekend with a lot of energy and skin to burn. Besides destroying two 5.13’s in a day Steven also casually and quickly polished off Johnny Rocket in a mere four tries(??). He slapped the jug with confidence and sailed the enjoyable 5.11 section to the chains.

Visiting Canadian Nate Hall flashing Green Machinist (5.12c)

A UK transplant visiting from Canada making a good onsight attempt of Debate Club (5.12b)

The Fourth of July holiday holds no relative significance for me in my life. I understand the importance of it for our history as a country and a culture but I don’t buy into the misguided patriotic chest thumping that it this holiday seems to represent lately. But with a paid holiday to burn and the Nox buzzing with good temps, I couldn’t help but get all tingly in my balls when I started packing for an actual multi-day trip out climbing. It has been a while. I think the last trip I went on was back in April, and there is just something magical that goes on when I start planning for a multiple day trip that will inevitably involve good friends, sleeping in my car, and of course climbing. These trips have historically represented a return to that childlike care-free attitude towards time, work, play, and life. Stress seems to melt away and I find myself becoming a happier, more content version of myself.

Jodie Itkonen working her project Groove Tube (5.13a)

A wild beast.

James Fillman (yet another visiting Canadian) working the extremely powerful Baby Onboard (5.13c)

This is likely the last trip to the Nox for me for a while. I miss my ledge at little si and I’m increasingly eager and motivated to get back to my projects there. This nasty heat wave that has settled like a weird funk over our usually temperate and mild PNW is finally taking its’ leave. The summer is flying by and if I don’t stop and really soak it in, it will be Autumn before I know it and time to really get focused. I don’t have much planned in the way of trips, but I am very excited to get out to places like The Rat Cave, New Halem, and Squamish. I’ve already made my plans for this Fall and in a couple of months I’ll be buying my ticket to SPAIN!!! I’ve been really lack-luster in my approach to training lately so I’m hoping that once I pay for that ticket I’ll get super focused again and prepare myself for the trip of a lifetime.