Naked Badger Wrestling in the Dark

  
We were happy to be in the park this weekend.  Pscyhe was high and after the successful trip last weekend I thought this weekend could be nerve wracking.  Its always a bit stressful when you’ve decided to commit to a project.  The first couple of burns are always the best because you’re not tied to success in any way.  At this point you just want to see what the route is all about, it’s kind of like a first date.  You ask her questions, she tests your ability and worthiness to court her.  You make out, you fight, you break up, you kiss and make up.  It’s all very hot and cold.  My point being after the first date you are kind of faced with this decision tree:

I’ve been courting a pretty little line called Churning in the Wake; she’s been gangbanged more times than an 18^th century Chinese prostitute who walks the docks of Beijing, but she always tells me ‘I’m special’ so I fell in love.  Besides getting extremely worried I might pull all of the tendons in my right hand I also had to really acclimate myself to falling on an almost vertical wall.  Its been a while since being yanked into a rock hard monolith of tuff was high on my anxiety list but after a few whippers I started to trust that I wouldn’t break my ankles on the landing.  It was good to finally dial in my beta on this line but frustrating that (for me) a send won’t materialize unless everything really falls into place (weather, attitude, energy levels). 

Kevin was lucky enough to catch this rare sighting on film.  The Canadian Goose Suicide Attempt.  Harley ever witnessed in real life seen in nature.

Ooooooohhh, those holds look small.

If Steven wasn't so white I would totally mistake him for a Jamaican.  He's such a RUDE BOY!

Forest is the coolest dude in the world.  You kick that MCAT's ass bro!

We also have been spending quite a bit of time in the Aggro Gulley.  It’s an amazing wall that kind of reminds me of Little si.  Kind of. 

Jorge on Churning Sky (5.13b)

Cole attempting something Really hard.

Sho on The Quickening(5.12c)

One of Steven's friends on something else really hard.

I’ve done the quickening which is one of the best at the grade in my opinion, but haven’t really opened anything else yet.  I did try out Disposable Heroes on literally the last pitch of the day.  I did the easier sequences that lead into the crux but the sun was baking the wall as I tried to dead point a heinous two finger divot and I knew it wasn't going to happen.  However I’m pretty psyched to get back on the line and figure out the crux sequence.  I also got an eye full during my time belaying Steven on Aggro Monkey and that seems like another objective I would be interested in adding to the list.

Forest busting through the monkey boy move on Monkey Boy(5.12b).

Last.....moves........!

 As the sun set and the temps got a little better I felt confidence rising within me and took Forest and ran over to churning.  I strapped my shoes on and glided up the first part of the route, nailing the first crux and moving into the second crux.  I hit the three finger divot, got my foot on a good hold and fell just short of making the finger jug.  Highpoint.  I fell a couple more times but clipped the chains.  It was a good mental thing to link to that part and the following day I refined my beta even more and managed the two hang (which really should have been a one hang but I fucked up yet again going to the credit card).  Overall I gave churning four burns this weekend two of which were legit burns.  I’m definitely ready to send this route.

Rosie on Disposable Heroes (5.13b)