The Smith Oblivion Times Forgotten part Two
Historically I’ve never much cared for trad. Seemed like a dangerous waste of time and
money. However, with age, like a fine
wine, my attitude turned sweet towards the shiny clinkety-clank of multi
colored gear and I decided to dive head first into this seemingly passing fad
(oh no he didn’t!). It was a common
conversation that could be heard around the non-existent glow of our campfire
every night about how we were going to do the monkey face, and then hit up all
of these cool looking multi-pitch trad routes and then knock out all of the
super classic cingle pitch trad routes.
Needless to say those conversations were chemically enhanced and after
five days of sport climbing we finally sucked it up and dedicated an entire day
to trad climbing. Chase and I got an alpine
start (around 9:30 or so) and started out our ambitious tick list on the ultra
classic Cinamon Slab. I didn’t care too
much for it, but we did the second pitch anyway and topped out in gale force
winds. Approaching near hypothermia we
rapped down and continued our day.
Ticking such classics as Lions Jaw, Moonshine Dihedral, New Testament,
and some other lesser classic but still fun 5.7’s near Chain Reaction. It was a blast!! Chase stepped it up in a big way and did his
first 5.9 and 5.10a trad leads! His head
was in the game and we were both on the same page of tickin a route, and
keeping it moving on to the next. Seven
pitches later we were both ready to be done.
On another note, one day we headed out to the Aggro Gulley
and everyone got a turn running a tran on probably the MOST FUN route in the
entire park Toxic.
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