Pockets of Happiness
I just got a job working as a night crew manager at the local grocery store. After I was done with all the rigmaroles of new employee paperwork and drug testing (thank god I stopped smoking crack, shooting heroine, and snorting blow) I made the leisurely drive to the Happy's for a quick bouldering sesh.
I didn't really have any projects lined up or expectations to fulfill, I just wanted to get on some lines I hadn't done. Since I was alone I chose to go the easy route and pick some problems that were side by side and required no one to spot me. There is a great pocketed wall just down and right of the classic crimpy test piece Rene, that had four distinct 'up' lines on it ranging from V.3-V.5, so I went for it. I managed to tick all four lines, two V.3's a V.4 and a V.5 in a half hour or so. The V.5 is called the Sidepull Problem and it did not disappoint. I think this might be my favorite V.5 in the canyon mainly because it's a steep power problem that involes both a small two finger pocket and a really cool crimp. I was excited to send on my second attempt.
I didn't really have any projects lined up or expectations to fulfill, I just wanted to get on some lines I hadn't done. Since I was alone I chose to go the easy route and pick some problems that were side by side and required no one to spot me. There is a great pocketed wall just down and right of the classic crimpy test piece Rene, that had four distinct 'up' lines on it ranging from V.3-V.5, so I went for it. I managed to tick all four lines, two V.3's a V.4 and a V.5 in a half hour or so. The V.5 is called the Sidepull Problem and it did not disappoint. I think this might be my favorite V.5 in the canyon mainly because it's a steep power problem that involes both a small two finger pocket and a really cool crimp. I was excited to send on my second attempt.
Both the crimp and pocket are featured in this photo.
The crux move is a core intensive deadpoint to this deceptive jug/sloper. The secret is hitting it as a sidepull.
This wall definitely packed a good punch and after ticking all four lines I felt pretty warmed up so I headed to a familiar wall, the Toxic Avenger/Mr. Happy wall. There is a cool link up starting on Toxic Avenger that climbs into Mr. Happy which is reported to go at V.7. Upon arrival I scoped the holds and made quick work of the link up, Mr. Happy (V.5) I had previously done via flash, and the link up took me two tries to send. This was turning out to be a good afternoon of work. I did hop on Toxic Avenger but only came as close as slapping the final hold. I'm psyched to return!
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