They Were Five

It’s always good to have a car full of friends, new and old, as you speed towards the day’s events yet to unfold. Typically an even amount of people is desired for a day of climbing but our group of five worked out quite well. Accompanying me on this trip was the usual suspects Dom and Laura, and my faithful belay partner as of late Greg, with one new face Melody. Besides the occasional game night and a small stint at Karaoke I had only met Melody a handful of times.
The agenda was as follows: A few hours at Little si, grunting and groaning on the projects, and then heading to Exit 38 to catch some shade and cooler temps at Nevermind, where subsequently more grunting and groaning occurred.
The heat just hit you in the gut as you stepped out of the car and we trudged up the approach trail to World Wall 1, myself soaking wet and feeling a little sleepy from the summer sun. I got a mellow start on Girls in the Gym as Dom, Laura and Melody warmed up on Devils Advocate. Greg hit Girls in the Gym on TR, but wisely decided to save his strength for what was to come at Deception Crag.
Oh no! That means? It’s time for me to go face to face with my latest proj. Judgment Day Direct. This would be my fourth attempt on this short bouldery sport route and I had the moves dialed. I didn’t feel like I climbed it very well, I even flailed a little on the first crux, but each move I felt as if I was going to come off but held it together. I came so close to sending but just gave up at the last throw slipping out of the move to the undercling. I was pleased to get it down to one hang and I’m really excited and nervous to come back and try to finish it off. The moves are hard and bouldery and I always feel a little intimidated by those kinds of routes. You never really know how you’re gonna’ feel until you step off the deck and start growling or whimpering. We wound down our session with Dom, Laura, and Melody getting on Reptiles and Amphetamines, and Dom getting his high point on Californicator. He’s really keen on this route right now and I know what that leads to. I got a lap in on Rainy Day(of course) and we packed up and headed on back to the car.


Me pulling my big butt over the ledge on Rainy Day.

Climbing into my air conditioned car was a welcome feeling and we arrived at the Exit 38 parking lot around 4:00. Nevermind was alive with a few groups of climbers, some looking like they had climbed here there whole lives while others appeared to be making their debut on the climbing scene(quote:”I always seem to see the sketchiest stuff here.”-Dom)


Greg and Melody hanging out while Dom battles the glare on Architect Rally(5.11a).


Dom on Architect Rally.

The main attraction was Steep Street for our group, Laura and Greg were both chomping at the bit. I made my way down to the far right side to throw myself at the Culture Shock/Goblet link up and fell after doing the crux, DOH! On my way back to the other side I managed to see Laura finish up on her redpoint of Steep Street! Nice job Laura! Well deserved.


Laura about to have a slab encounter on Strip Clip(5.9).

Next up was Greg, who was feeling particularly confident as of late, and had a good TR rehearsal on Steep Street just last week when we were here. Greg had only started leading last week as well, and his hardest clean lead was a 5.7, so this was a huge jump for him. He pulled on and got through the first crux smoothly; now it was just managing the pump and the head space and finishing it up which he did! Congratulations Greg! Great effort and way to step up to the plate! I can remember just last month when Greg was hesitant to do a 5.9 on top rope and now he’s leading routes left and right. A good feeling, and a sweet progression to be a part of.
The energy was good, and I decided to strike while the iron was hot and get back on Shocklet. I managed the crux with a nice growl and clipped the chains. It felt good, and I really enjoyed doing the crux sequence, bouldery and exciting because of where the last clip is. A great little link up if I do say so myself.
Laura and Melody managed Strip Clip, while I was forced to retrieve the draws off of Architect Rally, a route I had not done in years(!), it is still one of my favorites and may be the best .11a at this crag. Dom gave Goblet a couple goes and despite looking really solid was not able to get the last move, but I’m sure this won’t take him very long.





As time was beginning to get away from us we headed down to the Substation, a nice little crag just beneath the Iron Horse Trail bridge. I had seen a stellar looking long slabby climb here that went at 5.6 and it turned out to be a pretty good climb. Not the easiest 5.6 I’ve ever done either, smears and slopey holds kept me on my toes almost the whole way, not to mention the 20ft run outs. After top roping leads all day Melody finally stood up and decided she wanted to lead this route as well. Bold decision, but she ended up sending, and to top that this was her first lead route outside. The girl’s got balls, what can I say.


Melody on Homo Erectus(5.6)


Melody.


Aaaahhh, it's a monster!


Laura TR's the hardest .10d in the world! Subversive.


The substation gang.

We did a few more routes here, Subversive being the hardest; at .10d it’s the most pumped I’ve ever been on a 5.10 of any grade with each move potentially throwing me, really proud onsight. Greg lead another 5.9 and we all ended the day laughing, farting(or at least I was anyway), and enjoying the cool breeze that set in as the sun set. It was a sick, sick, sick day of climbing and I’m really becoming a fan of changing venues throughout the day. It’s fun to get a few burns in on a project at Little si, and then making your way up I-90 to play around on some easier stuff. Plus it just keeps you moving, thinking, and enjoying your surroundings.
I have felt a lot more confident on getting new routes lately and I feel like I’m finally starting to get this rope climbing thing down again.